Twice the price and worth every penny, You can't compare!
They look like decent enough filters but personally I would never buy anything with a name like sun sun, just a silly lil name!
SUNSUN HW-302 Outside Filter setup & test
- Thread starter CWO4GUNNER
- Start date
Twice the price and worth every penny, You can't compare!
They look like decent enough filters but personally I would never buy anything with a name like sun sun, just a silly lil name!
The first post on this thread show that I tested the 302's GPH using a stopwatch and a 5 gallon bottle and at a hight equivalent to most tanks and consistantly tested at 165 GPH with minimal media, I didn't over-pack it and you shouldn't need to. Over packing a canister does more harm then good becasue your not allowing the filter to properly do its job.
165 actual GPH compared to the manufacturer claimed of 265 GPH should be no surprise why? Because all manufacturer claimed GPH on all canisters, pumps and power-heads are without failure way-way overrated to begin with. What I can tell you is that the flow is very good and in comparison the GPH much higher then the Fluval 404/405 and a little less then the Mag 350. But for a stacked media basket canister it has a huge surface area basket (65 SI), almost twice that of the Fluval 404/405 (35 SI) which is actually more important since large surface area which is the foundation for any effective filter catches more dirt, has longer endurance, and keeps restriction to a minimum, the magnum 350 has 100-300 SI depending which cartridge your using, my new Fluval Super-cart has 800 SI.
The Sunsun 302 is effective enough to handle a 50-65 gallon tank effectively, larger then that say 75-120 gallons and I would consider a small polishing assist canister like the Mag 250 to help out.
just bought one today,. i hope it don't leak,..lol
i also have an odessa 4ply (jebo) had it for years,. but the last time i cleaned it it started leaking a we bit from the where the hose attments are connected to the base,.. just a dribble or so,..
i wonder if it need o rings or something? i got it to stop just by swiviling the connects a bit but i put it in a dish pan insert for sinks, just to be safe and no problems again but i think all canister need to set in one just in case,..
worked great so far,.. had about4 years,. i just keep forgetting to clean it,.lol
has the same set up as sun sun with hoses and the like,. i did get the manual primer stuck in for a bit but i always fill it to top anyway, so i don't need to prime it,..
thanks CWO4GUNNER for making these treads,.. i have good ideas but not the knoledge to implement them,.. so i steal yours,.. thanks,..
i also have an odessa 4ply (jebo) had it for years,. but the last time i cleaned it it started leaking a we bit from the where the hose attments are connected to the base,.. just a dribble or so,..
i wonder if it need o rings or something? i got it to stop just by swiviling the connects a bit but i put it in a dish pan insert for sinks, just to be safe and no problems again but i think all canister need to set in one just in case,..
worked great so far,.. had about4 years,. i just keep forgetting to clean it,.lol
has the same set up as sun sun with hoses and the like,. i did get the manual primer stuck in for a bit but i always fill it to top anyway, so i don't need to prime it,..
thanks CWO4GUNNER for making these treads,.. i have good ideas but not the knoledge to implement them,.. so i steal yours,.. thanks,..
This has been mentioned before. On almost all top lid motor designed canisters the pump will not pump water nor prime with air trapped inside unless you have the out-flow hose outside of the water to start with. The hand pump is trying to initially move heavy thick water from the intake hose underwater into the canister using just air pressure to start, but it cannot do that if the outflow hose is also underwater fighting the air (hydraulic lock). So to help, the end of the outflow hose must temporarily be outside the water. Once the prime is complete and the pump starts to flow most of the air out, then and only then do you place the outflow back underwater. Of-course this is all moot if your using the spray-bar becasue it is normally placed outside and above the water-line.
After priming and water is flowing via pump, remaining air can be removed by rocking the canister back & forth while pump is running removing all remaining trapped air bubbles hiding in the line, lid & canister.
After priming and water is flowing via pump, remaining air can be removed by rocking the canister back & forth while pump is running removing all remaining trapped air bubbles hiding in the line, lid & canister.
Yes you need to follow each line to make sure they are not crossed in the back somewhere. The in-line coming from the strainer deep underwater and the out line leaving the canister it temporarily over but outside and above the water line. Also your valve-block needs to be installed correctly like in the photo not backwards (switched) and your valve-block valve handle in the open-down position also like in the photo. Frm deep rapid pump strokes should get the water started siphoning and flooding the canister at which point you can plug in the canister and let the pump finish the job. If it stalls keep hand pumping with the motor on until its flowing on its own rocking the canister from side to side to get all the remaining air out.
What is the valve block? Maybe that's the problem I can't get anything going with this.
Could the problem be I am using this in a 55 gal turtle tank that is about 1/3 full. Could the water level not be high enough? The strainer is about 3 inches underwater.. I filled it with water but can't seem to get it going---
Could the problem be I am using this in a 55 gal turtle tank that is about 1/3 full. Could the water level not be high enough? The strainer is about 3 inches underwater.. I filled it with water but can't seem to get it going---
